Friday, October 31, 2014

Earth Goes Wild

Polite people rarely mention it, but brewpubs produce a lot of forgettable beer. For every masterpiece, there are a bunch of mediocrities and at least one stinker.  Batting averages vary,(scoring methods do too) and some little breweries do a lot better than others. 
I'm used to finding something good at Earth Bread + Brewery on Germantown Avenue in Mt. Airy. That was why I took my Beer Fundamentals class from Drexel to Earth for a brewery tour and tasting. What really surprised me was discovering that all four of the house beers were wonderfully complex, fully-realized, lick-the-glass luscious. Here's what those lucky students and I discovered: 
Jelly Donut(Berliner Weisse) 3% abv
I have to admit to being a cautious admirer, but never a big fan of Berliner Weisse. It's profound, un-citrusy sourness always seemed to my American palate to belong in the non-food category. This beer is Tom Baker's way of making the style accessible to folks like me and he has more than succeeded in harnessing the tricky fermentation of this classic. The light acidity puts you to mind of champagne, the fruitiness is just present enough to give the beer a center and the finishing notes are both wine-like and refreshing. It takes a bit of attention to figure out all that's going on here, but at a mere 3% ABV, you can take your time and have two.
An American in Brussels (Hoppy Black Ale) 5.9%
Close your eyes and it's a Belgian Golden Ale, maybe a bit more Americanized, but clearly recognizeable. There's just enough roastiness to add complexity and a dense, satisfying finish.
Luther's Rose (Festbier) 7.8% 
Be careful here. This Oktoberfest-style is friendly on the palate and a cuddly-pink to boot. It drinks easily, as they say, with a seductive sweetness on the palate and a refreshing spark at the finish. 
I want this with grilled salmon or a handful of salty snack. Decidedly a growler-worthy selection.
'VI' (Our anniversary Belgian-style Dubbel) 7.1%
Westmalle yeast and the usual malts (pilsner and vienna, perhaps) and just enough hops bitterness for balance. Superbly drinkable. The only bad thing about this beer is that it probably won't be on tap for Thanksgiving, so you'll have to celebrate the arrival of the Pilgrims in Brussels and their first beer dinner with the Flemings with something else.
If you are ever inclined to check out this lively, friendly brewpub, the time is now.


Monday, October 6, 2014

Perkuno's Hammer wins Gold at GABF. Earth Rejoices

Tom Baker's elegant master piece makes a return appearance.

It's easy to praise a beer that just won Gold at GABF: Chocolate and roasted grain notes underscored by hints of dried fruit. All in perfect, elegant balance with the light carbonation and velvet mouth feel. The finish screams 'gimme more'.
The baltic porter style has a lot to recommend it. There's the substantial, but not overwhelming body, the chocolaty nose, and appealing finish. Unfortunately, it's hard to find. Smuttynose makes a great one every so often and Baker's Perkuno's Hammer is essentially a re-issue of a beer he brewed when he was brewer/owner at Heavyweight.
So, like the Monarch Migration and the Fall in Philadelphia, this stuff is beautiful and rare. Head over to Earth Bread+Brewery and taste it now.