Monday, July 22, 2013

Small Triumphs/the post-hops age of beer?

Triumph Brewing in Princeton, NJ is a pleasant, ivyish sort of place, industrial brick with two-story stainless steel tanks for a back bar. There's a nice, predictable brewpub menu- bruschette, po' boys, grilled this'n'that- and friendly, post-graduate service.
We found seven beers on tap. Most of them were unsurprising, brewpubby and easy-drinking, but there were two that piqued our interest.
The first was the Honey Blonde (5%ABV). Normally, I'd read that name as a synonym for 'inoffensive light-weight' and pass it by, but it came with the sampler and so we got a pleasant surprise.  The Good Doctor grabbed it first: "nicely malty" she said, "with a little floral kick at the end." Even though I've never been kicked by a flower, I had to agree. Tasting more closely, the kick seemed to be from honey-from that meady thump in the mouth that honey leaves behind when its sugar is all fermented out. Let's think of it as an intriguing suggestion about what beer might taste like when this hops fad* fades.
The second was an intriguing Witbier.  Our waitress said it was modeled on Hoegaarden.
Now the Hoe (pronounced 'who') is a clean, silky beer with citrus and green apple notes. At just under 5% ABV it's that thirst-relieving, spirit-refreshing beer that people really want when they order one of the widely advertised taste-free fizzy drinks. I love the Hoe and we wouldn't get through summer without it. But this was a different Wit. Slightly stronger (5.9%), a little doughy with a just-detectable sourness at the finish. Another harbinger of a post-hop world? Stay tuned.
"I will definitely require more beer." she said.


*hops has only been around for four or five hundred years. In the history of beer it's a mere parvenu, a johnny-hopped-lately. Hopped beers, you could say, are a nouveau niche.

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